![]() Because the tang is now attached on the underside of the receiver it prevents the grip from resting where it should. Voila, the tang is now in place except its now on the bottom. then using nothing more that some bar stock with a "rivet head" shape on the end i banged and banged with a 4lbs. I just drilled two holes for the rivets in both the tang and receiver. Instead of putting the tang on the inside of the reciever i put it at the underside and riveted it in place. then i bought one of Ironwoods design stocks for the milled MAK-90. IN addition to not having a lower tang the receiver is cut at an angle. My solution was ingenious and is rock solid BUT its not really "mil spec". I had a similiar problem with my MAK-90 milled. That part took the better part of an afternoon. The next part required me to grind off two rivets and remove the effed-up tang, use files to re-do the tang slot as best as possible (it was savable, except for one deep die-grinder induced gash), buy a new tang and rivets from KVAR, grind the clearance cut on the tang's block (needed on all new tangs), "blue" that tang with Brownell's Oxpho Blue, mount the tang in the receiver (use stock to set position and depth), drill two holes through the new tang, make a bucking block for riveting the tang, and rivet the tang in place. That part was pretty easy, but expensive. He then refinished the rifle (part of a build), and shipped it all back to me. He did do a good job on the riveting at least. Once this was accomplished, he riveted the tang into the receiver at a crooked angle (due to the receiver floor being not fully "machined" AND the off-center tang slot). ![]() He then ground on the new tang I sent so it would fit in the off center, slightly too narrow slot in the receiver. Jayson roughed-out the tang cutout with a die grinder, cutting the slot off-center and not deep enough. You could do what I did and send it to Jayson Cotter at Investment Grade Firearms. ![]()
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